In my case there's only two major areas of water, the sea in the north east and a substantial lake in the middle of what will become "Centaur Valley".Įither way, you'll now have a mixture of land and water hexes. From this, you can selectively pick hexes and delete them to form the outlines of the water areas. I duplicate this (Ctr-d) and place the duplicate on the map, duplicating that and placing the next one until I've "blocked out" the area I'm mapping, if it's an island or some other area with a lot of water.įor areas with proportionately little water, repeat the process we used on the sea layer to make a completely green layer. That's all for the sea later for now: lock it and switch to the original layer (which we can call "land").Īt this point, I generally create a single green hex somewhere on the page. If not, either you've done something wrong or your computer is broken get a new one (in fact, there's likely to be a small drift due to rounding but it should be very minor). If everything has gone to plan, the bottom right hex should also be aligned to the grid. Firstly, select all (Ctr-a) and ungroup them so that you have a page of single hexes, then while they are all still selected, drag them into position on the page, making sure that the top left hex is aligned with a set of grid lines. You now have a page worth of sea hexes in groups of 2. Once the clones are created, delete the original item, which should still be selected. Under "Shift" set the per-row shift-X to 0, the per-column shift-X to '-33.33%', per-row shift-Y to -14.28%, and the per-column shift-Y to 0.Ĭlick "create" (there may be a bit of a pause here).
Symmetry should be left at the basic "P1". For A4, for example, this means selecting 'mm' and a width of 210 and a height of 297.
Set the units to whatever is appropriate and the values to the width and height of your page. On the first panel of the dialogue, select "width, height" instead of "rows, columns". Select the group and go to Edit>Clone>Create Tiled Clones. I've found that the Aqua colour in the default palette prints out nicely but it does look a bit bright on screen, so maybe think about using "Blue" for the water (and "Navy" for deep water, perhaps) if you're not going to be making printouts. We're about to create the sea layer, so if you've not decided on a colour-scheme you should at least pick that colour now. This will save you some annoyance if you want to post the map online somewhere as well as shrinking the image size on disc. In the document properties, this time, make sure that the page background is set to a solid colour (generally white) rather than being transparent. The final preference to check is unter "Tools" itself (bad UI design here) where "Visual bounding box" should be selected, although it probably already will be. Go into preferences and under "Clippaths and masks" select "Put all clipped/masked objects into one group" and "Ungroup automatically created groups".Īlso in preferences, under "Selecting", make sure that "Select only in current layer" is on, and that under "Clone" you have Inkscape set to unlink clones when the original is deleted (this will be changed later when we come to do trees and such). Set major lines to "2".Įnable snapping and set "snap nodes or handles" and "snap to cusp nodes" on. I'm using half inch hexes in this worked example to represent 1 mile per hex. However, this causes problems later with snapping to hexagonal shapes and we actually use half this distance, so for 1" wide hexes, the grid spacing is 0.578", and for 15mm wide hexes, the grid spacing is 8.655mm. Additionally, the grid spacing is as measured on the grid dialogue box is also aligned this way so if you want hexes x units from face to face, you would use a grid spacing of 1.156x. The grid spacing is up to you, but the grid in the current version of Inkscape always works so that hexes which align with it are always with the point up the page.
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